Friday, June 26, 2015

Abyaneh and Kashan

Photos from around Abyaneh, an old town up in the mountains at 2500 meters altitude. They call it an old ladies town because the young population has decamped for greener pastures. The temperature was around 86 degrees, the coolest we've felt since we've been here. The town reminds me of places in Arizona or New Mexico. 

In Kashan we ate with a family. We arrived about 8:30 and they had been fasting all day..,no food or water from 4:30 in the morning. Dinner was ready and full glasses of water were waiting. They turned on the TV and watched til the Mullah declared the sun had set and the two fasting ladies downed their water. My own throat was scratchy and parched from empathizing with them. They'd worked all day and the outside temperature was 108.

The ladies arranged the meal on serving platters on the floor in the kitchen, which incidentally has carpets. Once arranged everything was moved to a plastic tablecloth on the floor. Everyone drinks Pepsi or Coke with meals. As a starter we had a glass of rose water..very aromatic and incredibly sweet. Almost all the meals we've had have consisted of stewed chicken with tomato or some variation of this, a lamb dish, an eggplant stew, rice and with this meal a very crispy and crunchy rice cooked with the "bath mat" bread. They watched a soap opera while we ate and after the meal everyone got on their iPhones. On the kind of tour we were able to take here in Iran there were no opportunities for great dining experiences...which was what we expected. 

The striking bug was an inch long and flew like a Harrier jet. Aren't the dots and stripes attractive? Hundreds of them were parked or hovering over the lavender flowers.

Richard is crossing the threshold of a lovely old merchant's home, very well restored and resurrected as a hotel, where we stayed the night. 15 or 20 such old homes have been snapped up by investors speculating on large growth in tourism in the near future and the desirability of the homes for conversion into chic, upscale boutique hotels. 

May I be forgiven repeats and typos due to intermittent Internet...and forcing everything through an illegal portal? Once we're home, corrections will be made. 














Thursday, June 25, 2015

Esfahan


Military cemetery where 400,000 fallen in the Iraq/Iran war are buried.
Angel? No.The spirit of the dead..a lovely large statue in front of the military cemetery.
A very famous photo in Iran, "the last goodbye". Father and son were both volunteers in the 
Iran/Iraq war. The boy was 17 and the man 60. The boy was going to the front. 

From an illuminated bible in the Armenian museum. 

Music notation...very old.




Another friend. He graduated from Eastern Oklahoma University. Loves Americans. People we talked to on the street told us how happy they were that the American volleyball team refrained from drinking water during the first part of the game so they would be on an even playing field with fasting Muslims and in keeping with the country's custom of no eating or drinking outside until sundown during Ramadan.



Saffron ice cream with pistachio nut topping.





Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Esfahan

Handicrafts. Hundreds of shops...all runs together at the end of the day.
Music room at the castle. Glass and porcelain objets were kept in the cubbie holes resulting in great acoustics.

Mr. Mustache is a popular coffee shop owner.

Womens mosque...very relaxing to stretch out on the floor and contemplate the ceiling.


Interesting brand name. Doesn't inspire much confidence.

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Yadz to Esfahan








The roast lamp was enticing as were the beef feed and roast ground. I stuck with the Chicken kabob which comes smothered in rice.


Beautiful bridge dividing Eshafan.
A "Nadia lecture" on the city.
Our huge hotel, the Abbasi, full of people breaking fast now that the sun is down. 

On our way to Esfahan

Lots of driving in the desert today. One excellent stop at Kharanaq, an ancient Zoroastrian village. Lovely spot undergoing restoration. We've had the same driver for two days; the van is clean and he stocks up the cooler with water. The air conditioner works and he uses it! Esfahan is cooler by a few degrees than blazing hot Yadz. Our hotel is very comfortable; three nights in one spot will be appreciated. 

Nadia has been giving us lectures on Iranian culture as we travel.