An ordinary day

We have a new client that makes whipping devices. As we are intensely interested in foams this is something we are looking forward to. A friend recently sent me a menu which featured a beer and bbq pairing and there were even foams featured on this macho menu from a bit of a culinary outpost...Fresno. Foams were prominently featured on many menus we enjoyed this year, but primarily at Alinea.

Now we can spend some serious time foaming everything that comes along and looks like a possibility. Richard is bringing over apricots tonight which we will halve, sugar and bake for 20 minutes then put in the freezer. My sister-in-law Jan is a wizard at low sugar, delicious compotes and jams. This is her recipe. Could we puree the apricots, water them down and then foam them for an ice cream topping? We'll see.

We might get rain tonight in Southern California! Very unusual and dangerous because the rain will sprout the dormant seeds, they'll sprout, grow a bit and then dry out, leaving the hillsides covered with fire prone vegetation. It's already a tinder box here...this may be just more fuel for the fires.

Lost things were reunited with their rightful owners today; Richards lost sunglasses turned up and he found his toothpaste. Perhaps this good fortune will spread to me and I too will magnetically attract the lost and convert them into the found.

Dinner tonight is an artichoke with veal and angel hair pasta. We're still eating up the creme fraiche so perhaps we'll have a dollop on some apricots, drizzled with cognac.

Just an ordinary day in Fallbrook.

BASIL FOAM

Yield: 50 servings

Craig Shelton's Basil Foam

2 bunches basil leaves, washed of silt
3 1/3 cups spring water, divided
8 pieces gelatin sheets, 1.4 ounces powdered unflavored gelatin
4½ Tablespoons granulated sugar
Cold spring water with ice for ice bath

Soak the gelatin in cold water if using sheets, or use 1/3 cup of the spring water, to soften powdered gelatin. When softened drain and wick off moisture from gelatin sheets.

Bring the spring water to a boil over high heat. Blanch the basil leaves for 30 seconds. Shock and drain the basil leaves, carefully reserving all the blanching liquid, stirring in the granulated sugar until dissolved.

Transfer blanching liquid to a deep container that can be partly submerged in a deep bowl of cold water with ample ice to bring the temperature of the boiling water down sharply and quickly. Shock until it reaches (90°F). Add softened gelatin. Stir to dissolve. Continue to shock until chilled (about 70°F).

When basil is cold, transfer to blender and purée until smooth, adding enough cold infused liquid to facilitate blending into a smooth purée. Strain through a fine sieve so that some flecks of basil are visible in finished product. Combine basil purée and cooled basil-infused water in a stainless steel siphon canister. Turn to seal tightly. Load with two CO2 cartridges. Maintain under refrigeration between uses.


Black Grape Foam
Recipe Courtesy of Mario Batali


2 pounds black grapes (may substitute any wine grape)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 cup heavy cream
Wash and stem grapes. Pass grapes through a food mill, not allowing any seeds through but including all pieces of pulp on skin that come through. Refrigerator.
Make simple syrup by heating sugar and water until clear and refrigerator. When ingredients are cold, add simple syrup to grape pulp. Add lemon juice and zest and stir to mix well. Whip cream to soft peaks and fold into cold grape mixture. Place in ice cream machine and chill following machine instructions. When finished, pour into 2-ounce Dixie cups. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. To serve, remove from freezer and allow to stand 10 minutes. Unmold into a martini glass and garnish with fresh cream and clean grapes.